The answer is no, not generally. All that means is I wouldn't do it that way. It all depends on how much you want to go out if that circuit trips. Having outlets on different circuits isn't as important as having lighting on different circuits. If a lighting circuit trips, and in a home the lighting and outlets share circuits, you don't want every room on that floor to be dark. So you might consider wiring a room on one floor on the same circuit as the room above or below. That's fine. But if there are 4 rooms in close proximity on the same floor, I wouldn't put all the lighting on one circuit, even though that is an acceptable installation.
Depends on what you are asking about. I can tell you that all garage outlets must be protected by a GFCI circuit. You can install as many or as little as you want as long as there is at least 1 outlet on each wall. Any freezer or refrigerator must be on a dedicated circuit. There must be a light switch by the doorway mounted 48" to the top of the switch box. If you have 2 entrances into the garage then install a 3 way light switch so the lights can be turned on/off at both locations. Outlets cannot me mounted higher than 48" above the floor. I would install the outlets on 1 circuit and the lights on another circuit unless you only have a couple of lights. Use AWG #12 wire for the garage protected by a 20 amp breaker. If the garage is detached from the house then you need a disconnect in the garage. Any 240 volt outlet must be on a dedicated circuit protected by the proper breaker and correct size wire needed for the device.
A dedicated logic circuit is generally used to perform one task. Not usually programmable. Say for example a lift (elevator) control; where inputs are received from the lift position, door position, floor etc and logic outputs to motors etc from the logic performed.
I have never heard of wall space requirement in the electrical terminology. There is a code rule for the positioning of receptacle outlets around a room. This type of outlet has to be counted as a device when estimating the number of outlets that can be installed on one circuit. If you are talking about horizontal placement of electrical boxes at 300 mm floor level, then this outlet will not be included in that measurement.
I have never heard of wall space requirement in the electrical terminology. There is a code rule for the positioning of receptacle outlets around a room. This type of outlet has to be counted as a device when estimating the number of outlets that can be installed on one circuit. If you are talking about horizontal placement of electrical boxes at 300 mm floor level, then this outlet will not be included in that measurement.
If there is any additional load on the outlets greater than 2.5 amps the breaker will trip. Loads of 1500 watts should be on a dedicated breaker. If the total load exceeds 15 amps the breaker will operate. However many of the outlets might supply only lights, TVs or nothing at all, so in those conditions it's OK.
Most garages that I have seen have some outlets 16 inch from floor and some 38-40 inch from floor so they would be higher than a workbench.
Vintage floor lamps can be found in a variety of outlets. They can often be purchased from eBay, but are also available in flea markets and antiques dealerships.
It is usually down to the opinion of the individual to decide when it is necessary to use floor steamers. They are needed when one has stubborn stains on their floor or something has been spilled and leaves a sticky residue.
Not at all.
You need to address this from the prospective of current draw per light. The length is not really the issue. Your continuous current should not exceed 80% of 20 amps, or 16 amps. Now if you were using certain halogen bulbs the current for each might be 1/2 amp each so you could have 32 such bulbs. Do a sample layout in what is called a reflected ceiling plan (Imagine the ceiling plan on the floor) and see how many lights of what current you plan to use and break up your circuit as needed.
I use a hammer from the floor to the bottom of the outlet. This equates to about 13". Usual construction specifications from the electrical engineers is 300mm or 12 inches to center of the device.