Yes I have one that runs on a 30 amp circuit.
The heater with 750 watts and 7.1 amps is less expensive to run. This is because it has a lower amperage, meaning it requires less electric current to operate. The 600-watt heater with 12.5 amps requires a higher electric current, which could translate to higher electricity costs.
This refers to the electric current in amps. There is no definition of what constitutes a low current, but in electronics it might refer to less than 1 mA, while in domestic power supply it might mean less than 5 amps.
Depends on what you have connected to the circuit. It is less than 10 amps or the breaker would trip. A rule of thumb is you design for about 80% load related to the breaker. For 20 amps that would equal 16 amps.
A 2/0 copper conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 125 amps for 230 feet on a 240 volt system.
You don't provide enough information to answer your question specifically. If the 20 A breaker is providing 110 Volts it can handle 20 Amps for a time. For continuous use you don't want to exceed 16 Amps. As long as your two 110 Volt devices draw less than a total of 16 Amps when you add the current rating of each device, then you are okay.
Depends on how big the motor is. A stronger motor will draw more amps then a weaker or less efficient motor. For example a wiper motor draws far less then a starter motor.
All motors draw less current when their load reduces.
The spec for ignition off draw (all components off, key removed) is .035 amps or less. It can take 5 minutes for the computers to "time out" and go to "sleep".
Check for a key off draw (or parasitic draw) Should be less than .5 Amps
124.3 amps. If you have one on a vehicle, for example a winch, use no less tha 00g cable. That is a LOT of power, and an ordinary alternator can't handle that.
The heater with 750 watts and 7.1 amps is less expensive to run. This is because it has a lower amperage, meaning it requires less electric current to operate. The 600-watt heater with 12.5 amps requires a higher electric current, which could translate to higher electricity costs.
This refers to the electric current in amps. There is no definition of what constitutes a low current, but in electronics it might refer to less than 1 mA, while in domestic power supply it might mean less than 5 amps.
Depends on what you have connected to the circuit. It is less than 10 amps or the breaker would trip. A rule of thumb is you design for about 80% load related to the breaker. For 20 amps that would equal 16 amps.
I think a electric lawnmower would be cheaper because current usage goes off the amount of amps and if you have a lawnmower that has a low voltage then it would cost you less.
Amps and Watts measure different things. An Amp is a measure of electrical current and a Watt is a measure of Power. Which ever device draws the higher amperage will be the one that uses more electricity! Hence the 240 watt heater draw less amps even though it uses more watts: Volts Watts/Electical Current Amps/Power example heater 240 volt draws 2000/1000 watts - but uses 8.3/4.2 amps example heater 120 volt draws 1500/750 watts - but uses 12.5/6.3 amps
Using the formula: Amps = Watts/Volts look up the wire size needed in the national electric code book for the amperage of the device. This formula only works for single phase current. If you are using 3 phase, look in the book. In general, 15 Amps or less: 14 Ga Copper wire. 20 Amps or less 12 Ga. 30 Amps or less 10 Ga. Anything more than 30 amps, look it up in the book.
This depends upon how much current they draw. Older ones tend to be less efficient and draw more. You will have to check the nameplate to see what the current draw is and add them up. Then Ohm's law and the power conversion formula will have to be used.