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-- Two loads ... each of which dissipates 210 watts on a 120V supply ...when wired in parallel, dissipate 420 watts.-- Two others in series also want to dissipate 420 watts, so each of thosedissipates 210 watts on a 60V supply.Power dissipated is proportional to the square of the voltage, so on a 120V supply,each of these would dissipate 840 watts .
The APC 1500 has a standard power of 865 watts/1500 VA. The APC 1500 has an output of 120V and an output of 120v. The specifics of the model can be found on the official website.
you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
With one interpretation of this question, the answer would be two 120V wires and a ground.
the voltage between 1 line & phase =120v The voltage between 2 line =240
No. Some carry batteries internally (handhelds), and some are wired for 120v power (base stations).
-- Two loads ... each of which dissipates 210 watts on a 120V supply ...when wired in parallel, dissipate 420 watts.-- Two others in series also want to dissipate 420 watts, so each of thosedissipates 210 watts on a 60V supply.Power dissipated is proportional to the square of the voltage, so on a 120V supply,each of these would dissipate 840 watts .
If the motor is designed for 120V or 220V whatever the case, it will function properly.If it is a 12V motor and you supply 120V it will make a mess and you will probably get hurt from flying debris!
Not directly, you would need to transform 480v circuit to 120v with a transformer first.
Neutral is at the jumper that changes it from 120v to 240v. Two stator windings are used in series to make 240v; at that junction is (when wired in Series)your neutral/common/ground. Ground this terminal and use it for your neutral/common. When wired in parallel you have 110v and the jumper is removed and there is no common/neutral and ground is from the frame of the generator.
When light is turned off, you measure 120V at point B and 240V at point C. Since your reference point is A, then A to C is 240V and A to B is 120V. This iteration confirms point B ("120 volts on the live") is probably your neutral, and you are wired incorrectly.
Yes, but be careful! If you produce it from batteries, then it's DC ...NOT the kind of 120v you get from a wall outlet, and you can't usethe battery stack to run anything that expects to be plugged intothe wall. With the possible exception of incandescent lights or atoaster, but cordless-phone batteries will not deliver enough juiceto run a toaster ... not for more than a couple seconds anyway.You can use the batteries to produce the voltage, but I'll be verysurprised if you have anything that can run on 120v DC.
as long as the total WATTAGE of the bulbs is the same, you should get the same light and the wires will handle the load just fine.
the simplest solution is by connecting two 120v 3amps heater in series , the same can be used directly on 240v. However the current drawn will still be 3 amps & Not 1.5 amps. The heater output power will be double that of a single heater running on 120v. ( or equvalent to two heaters operating on 120v. supply ) A more expensive method is to use a stepdown transformer which can be powered on 240v & connect the heater on the transformer 120v side. this method will consume approx. 1.5 amps from the 240v supply.
no ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stepdown transformer. More expensive than buying the correct light fixture. Y-THINK-Y
Only if the ballast is a multi tap ballast.:Even if you could install a 120V ballast, or tap it to 120V with the existing one, Current may become an issue. To run the 400W light (sodium?) Now instead of the .833 amp range it's more like 3.33 amps. Supply wiring would have to be able to handle that. Those types of lights are often on long runs to building and grounds lights, parking lots, etc. Using 480 saves a lot on wiring costs.
It may not blow, but it will turn twice as fast and burn out very quickly. It is meant for 110 only. Check the sump pump. Some of them can be wired either 120v or 240v. If yours is like that, just wire the motor for 240v and plug it in.