you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
There is no such thing as a 'watt per day'. A watt is an instantaneous measurement of the rate at which you are using energy. To find the 'wattage' of a standard tumble dryer, check its nameplate data.
washer and dryer people leave change in their pockets and it always falls out
Part # 3390291 on a whirlpool (or kenmore, or maytag) dryer is the hi-temp thermostat. It sits next to part #3977394 Thermal cut off on the outside shell surrounding the heating element (the kit including both is kit# 279816) . The full thermostat #3387134 sits next to the thermal fuse on top of the blower motor.
When you point a running hair dryer upward, and place a ping pong ball in the air stream, it will eventually float somewhere above the hair dryer and near the air stream. It stays above the dryer because the drag of the air balances out the ball's 2.7 grams of mass, and near the air stream due to the Bernoulli effect. The Bernoulli effect is the drop in pressure when a fluid's velocity increases; you can demonstrate it by blowing over the top of a piece of paper. It is partly responsible for the lift generated by an airplane's wing. The ball is drawn towards the center of the air stream due to the increasing velocity and the resulting Bernoulli force, but is pushed away by the air glancing off its surface. The ball maintains a position where these forces balance out, perhaps wobbling back and forth so the average forces balance out.
Ever notice on a humid day how water drops form on the outside of a cold glass of beer? If you cool down humid air the water content turns to liquid. Cold refrigeration lines do the same thing. Water outside your AC system has no connection to the inside of your dryer/accumulator/tin can thingy.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
For convenience I install the receptacle just above the backboard of the dryer. This way if the dryer is to be moved out of its location it can be unplugged before the move is started. Sometimes the dryer is located in a confined space and it is hard to reach down to the floor level to unplug the dryer with out becoming an acrobat.
Under the new electrical code rules three prong dryer cord receptacles and therefore cords are not allowed to be installed. As you are finding out, stores are not carrying them in stock any more. You should consider an upgrade for safety sakes, to a four prong plug cord and change the wall receptacle to a four prong receptacle. There are instructions on how to do this your self on Answers.
Yes, most definitely. Provisions for the ground wire in the dryer receptacle should be used. The feeder cable's ground wire is first grounded to the receptacle's junction box ground screw and then taken to the receptacle's ground terminal. The dryer plug configuration will match up to the dryers four wire plug in cable. When the plug is connected into the dryer receptacle the ground terminals of both devices will match and the ground wire will be continuous from the voltage source at the distribution panel and complete the circuit at the dryer. This low impedance electrical path will conduct any ground fault that could occur at the dryer and trip the feeder breaker of the dryer circuit, there by removing the fault current from the dryer circuit.
I don't think you quite understand your question. If this is new construction, (or redesign), and you are installing a gas range, the gas line has to be installed to code. If you are abandoning already installed electrical wiring, you should either remove the wiring and the circuit breakers or securely seal the ends of the wires with wire nuts and tape and turn off the circuit breakers. It also helps to lable the wires and circuit breakers as "old - not in use".
Hard wired means that there is no plug and receptacle in the circuit powering the dryer. What you will find is a metal jacketed cable that will come out of the wall or floor and go right into the dryer.
Yes there is a serious danger. The breaker should be tripping under this condition and not allowing the frame of the dryer to become electrically energized. It means that the ground wire is missing from the dryer receptacle or the dryer cord is not grounded to the machine. Shut the breaker off to the dryer and remove the dryer receptacle. Look for a bare copper wire. It should be bonded to the box and then to the receptacles U shaped pin hole. If this end is fine check the dryer end where the cord goes into the back of the dryer to make sure the green ground wire is connected to the frame of the dryer. If you don't feel competent of doing this get some electrical help as this condition needs to be repaired before you use the dryer again. If you were shocked and recovered, you will be OK You should report it though because it could kill someone, for example, if they had a heart problem of some kind.
I do not believe there is an adapter, it would probably violate the electric code. The fourth wire is a separate ground wire. The best fix would be to have a four-hole receptacle installed by an electrician.
If your breaker box will accept tandom breakers you can remove 4 single pole breakers add 2 tandoms this will empty 2 spaces for your 2 pole 30 amp for the dryer
It depends on the terms of a lease. If a washer and dryer hookup is not installed in the unit or property, then it is expected that your laundry be done off-premises.
== == The washing machine outlet should be ground fault protected on 12-2 wire. The 30 amp dryer circuit should be on 10-3 wire with a ground. Laundry receptacle outlet for washer, 12/2 with ground yes! GFCI required if receptacle is within 6 feet of sink or duplex receptacle rather than single receptacle [but a GFCI isn't a bad idea anyway...Dryer, 10/3 with ground and 4-wire outlet and cord set connection at dryer location! NO NEUTRAL BONDING LINK!1) NEC requires a disconnecting means [plug and receptacle works] if equipment [dryer] is not within sight of the power source [in this case, if the panel is in the garage]2) You were never allowed to use the ground wire to carry neutral current, so you need an insulated white or grey neutral [this means three wire]3] You are not longer allowed to use the neutral jumper at the terminal in the dryer for a chassis ground [with certain limited exceptions - existing ungrounded three wire cable and new dryer] Ground wire goes to chassis. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
it is a miss-wire, check what voltage you get between ground and the other hot!