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The white wire would go to the neutral bar. Just be sure of the shunt trip voltage required for the breaker and land the white wire on the appropriate neutral bar in the correct panel.
Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
It shouldn't. The open end of a non connected neutral should have the same potential as the voltage feeding the circuit. The only time a voltage will show is when the return neutral is tested with a meter to the neutral bar or the ground return bar. It will then show what the supply voltage to the connected load is. Once this neutral is connected to the neutral bar there will be no voltage shown across the test meter between the neutral and the neutral bar or the ground bar.
Because the white wire on a 120 volt circuit is the neutral wire that is connected to the silver screw on outlets and switches. It is connected to the neutral bar in the service panel.
If the sub panel is in the same building remove the bonding screw that bonds the neutral bar to the panels enclosure. Remove the ground from the second ground rod. The sub panel is grounded by the ground wire from the sub panel's feeder. If the panel is separate from the main building treat the sub panel as a separate service. It will need its own ground rods and ground wire from the rods to the neutral bar of the sub panel. Leave the bonding screw in. There will be no ground wire in the conduit between the two services.
Unless the panel is the Main Panel (first panel in the system after the service feed) all panels have a neutral bar. Otherwise you are missing pieces. If this is the Main Panel, the neutral bar is bonded to the ground by a bus-bar. If this is the case, neutrals should all be connected to the same side of these bonded bars. Electrically it makes no difference, however it is a good practice to keep electrical panels neat and organized. If this is not the Main Panel and there is no neutral bar, STOP, PUT DOWN THE TOOLS, CALL A PROFESSIONAL. This panel is missing pieces and may be dangerous. It is possible to have a panel without a neutral. This panel would serve only 240 volt loads where no neutral is needed, however I have not seen this done in residential applications.
Take a look at the junction where the ground wire and the neutral enter the panel. There you should see a green grounding screw that protruded through the neutral block and into the metal enclosure of the distribution panel.
The term SN refers to a panel or disconnect switch that has solid neutral bar installed. It is a small bar that allows the service conductors to be bonded to the enclosure at that point.
You need to be more specific. Is this your feed?? Is this a home run (the wire that is feeding a circuit). Anyway if this is your feed wire (the wire supplying power to your sub panel) then you will land your two hots , then you will land your ground wire on the lug that is bonded to the panel. Sometimes this is a ground bar that can be screwed to the panel itself and then your neutral will go to the bar that is not touching anything. So your neutral coming in will be tightened down to the same bar as the neutrals that are feeding the circuits. This is assuming you'r are feeding your sub panel with 2 hots, a ground and a neutral.
On the desktop, right-click and select "Add panel."
The white wire would go to the neutral bar. Just be sure of the shunt trip voltage required for the breaker and land the white wire on the appropriate neutral bar in the correct panel.
Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
It may be the GFCI breaker is defective. Make sure it is wired correctly. Neutral to neutral bar and ground to ground bar.
It shouldn't. The open end of a non connected neutral should have the same potential as the voltage feeding the circuit. The only time a voltage will show is when the return neutral is tested with a meter to the neutral bar or the ground return bar. It will then show what the supply voltage to the connected load is. Once this neutral is connected to the neutral bar there will be no voltage shown across the test meter between the neutral and the neutral bar or the ground bar.
You can use the Control Panel to install it.
In North American residential homes, there are 3 wires coming from the utility company, two "hots" and neutral. The two "hot" conductors get connected to the main breaker. The neutral gets connected to the neutral bus bars located along the sides of the breaker box. There is a set screw that is placed in the neutral bar that screws into the distribution panel enclosure thereby bringing the potential of the neutral bars down to zero. The wire from your ground rod is also connected to the neutral bus bar, and thereby it is connected to the neutral from the power company. This is also often bonded to the copper cold water plumbing in the house if the home is not plumbed in PVC water pipe. White circuit wires are then connected to the neutral bus bars. Also in the distribution panel are ground bus bars. The ground wires from circuit cables are connected to these grounding bars. Do not under any circumstance terminate the white and bare ground wires together. Ground wires to the ground bar and white wires to the neutral bar.
In any distribution panel there are individual bars for each termination. The ground buss is in direct contact with the metal enclosure. The neutral is isolated from the metal enclosure. The only place where the two come into contact with each other is where a bonding screw protrudes through the neutral bar and into the metal enclosure.