Assume a single breaker controlling a number of outlets. The black wire is HOT, the white wire is Neutral and the green or bare wire is Ground. The wires and outlets should match the rating of the breaker in Amps. Typically 15 A for 14 Gauge wire. (I prefer 20A outlets and 12 gauge wire). You must calculate the expected load at each outlet. The electric code may be different in each locale, but 8 to 10 outlets on a circuit might be typical for general usage. That is over an amp per outlet. If you had a situation where you knew you would be plugging in a high amp device liek an electric heater you might only have 1 outlet on circuit.
You wire the outlets in a circuit in parallel and make certain each is wired identically. The Black wire should always be on the copper colored screw and the white on silver screw and the ground on the green screw. For a couple of bucks you can buy an outlet tester. It is usually yellow with a three prong plug and lights that tell you if an outlet is wired correctly with power turned on. The lights identify problems based on which lights are lit.
No more than 13.
A GFCI receptacle can pass it's "protection" to other outlets wired from it. If the GFCI trips, all outlets wired from it will "trip" also. A GFCI tripping will not necessarily trip the circuit breaker in the service panel.
Electrical outlets are wired in parallel.
Assuming this is not an office of a place where lots of the outlets will be used to power items that draw lots of current on a 15 amp circuit wired with 14/2 wire I would limit it to no more than 10 outlets and lights combined. On a 20 amp circuit wired with 12/2 wire I would limit it to a 14 outlets and lights combined. There is no limit in the code. You just use common sense based on what is going to be used on this circuit.
When your house was wired the outlets were probably wired using the stab in terminals on the back of the outlets, these tend to cause trouble over time.Turn off the power and rewire the outlets using the binding screw terminals.By chance if the outlets are wired on the binding screws, inspect all for loose joints.You may have to inspect every box and outlet on this circuit to find the problem. I once had a customer who was having a similar problem and it only showed up while playing the stereo very loud.We determined that the vibration was causing the stab in terminals to loose contact,we removed every outlet and switch and reconnected all by using the binding screws and the problem went away.Hope this helps.
ALL outdoor circuits and all 115v circuits in a bathroom, kitchen or garage should be protected by a GFIC. If you have any doubt, contact your local building inspector.GFIC outlets are relatively inexpensive and can be wired into the first circuit of a string of outdoor outlets. The expense is reasonable and the protection is well worth the investment.
A series circuit/
They are wired in series.
A parallel circuit
Seems to me that would be a tool for the residents. A diagram of the home that shows electrical outlets and direct wired appliances - and which breaker or fuse these point to.
If it is a properly wired circuit (according to code) in the home, the breaker for that circuit will trip deenergizing the shorted circuit. If it is not properly wired, it could get hot and start a fire and possibly burn down the home.
At 120 volts a 15 amp circuit wired with #14 wire used for a dedicated light circuit do not install any more than 1400 total watts in lighting. If used for an dedicated outlet circuit do not install more than 8 outlets.