Your 2-wire system is actually connected to one "side" of the 3-wire system.
In your utility's 3-wire system you have 2 hot wires that are attached to each end of a tranformer winding and the neutral is attached in the middle and grounded. Typically in the US this gives you 240v (or something similar) between hot leads and 120v from each hot lead to neutral or ground.
If there is no ground wire connect the ground wire to the neutral wire.
What you need to define is the statement "utility- sized electrical generator". It depends on what the generators output is used for as to the way it is internally wired. In some configurations there is no neutral to ground as in a Delta configuration.If the generator is configured for a Wye output and the neutral centre tap is not grounded there will be a floating voltage between the generator and the utility system ground. It is for this reason that the generator's neutral point is grounded to bring the floating voltage down to zero volts to ground.
Some older wire does not have a ground. All you can do in that case is use a jumper wire to connect the ground to the neutral.
Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
It shouldn't. The open end of a non connected neutral should have the same potential as the voltage feeding the circuit. The only time a voltage will show is when the return neutral is tested with a meter to the neutral bar or the ground return bar. It will then show what the supply voltage to the connected load is. Once this neutral is connected to the neutral bar there will be no voltage shown across the test meter between the neutral and the neutral bar or the ground bar.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
If there is no ground wire connect the ground wire to the neutral wire.
remember the + side of the speaker basically means neutral, in all electric projects the - is always the live line, so if + means neutral that basically means that ground would also be neutral, speakers dont need ground, so if u wish connect + with neutral on the speaker.
What you need to define is the statement "utility- sized electrical generator". It depends on what the generators output is used for as to the way it is internally wired. In some configurations there is no neutral to ground as in a Delta configuration.If the generator is configured for a Wye output and the neutral centre tap is not grounded there will be a floating voltage between the generator and the utility system ground. It is for this reason that the generator's neutral point is grounded to bring the floating voltage down to zero volts to ground.
Some older wire does not have a ground. All you can do in that case is use a jumper wire to connect the ground to the neutral.
If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........
If there is a GFCI in the circuit it will stop working correctly. They compare ground current to neutral current to detect a fault. It makes ground current equal to neutral current which is a fault condition.
Ground and neutral should only be connected at the main electric panel to prevent parallel neutral currents. If it is a new installation, you must provide four wires (two hots, 1 neutral, & 1 ground) and connect to the four separate (appropriate) places on the dryer. If it is an existing installation and it only has three wires (two hots and a neutral) connect the neutral to both the neutral and ground connection of the dryer (the National Electrical Code allows this exception for older homes). Call a qualified electrician to do any electrical work.
Yes, you may connect the ground and neutral together as long as this is a replacement in an exsisting dwelling,for new construction you must have a four wire circuit with separate neutral and grounding conductor.It was never the intention of the code to make home owners replace exsisting three wire circuits with four wire when replacing equipment. .
If you are connecting 120 volts, you connect the black wire to the breaker, white wire to the neutral bar, and ground wire to the ground bar. If you are connecting 240 volts connect the black & white wires to the breaker, & ground wire to the ground bar.
The new cooktop has a 4 wire connection. Red & Black are hot. White is neutral, and green is ground. You existing panel is wired with 3 wires. Black & Red are hot and green is ground. There is no neutral wire. Connect the black to black, red to red, and then connect the white and ground together at the plug.
If you are working with a sub panel, there are a few reasons to isolate the neutral. Firstly, currents will then return to the main panel and service ground.