Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
That could only happen if the neutral wire (white) becomes disconnected at either the panel, the meter base or the transformer.
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.
Assuming a 120V circuit then a 30A Single Pole. For a 240V circuit an 30A two pole. Of course anything smaller that a 30A is acceptable. 30A is the maximum allowed.
A short, which will trip the main breaker.
You will need to have a three wire feeding your well pump motor to do this. It will be connected like a sub panel breaker box. A new breaker for the pump out of the new panel and a 15 amp breaker for the new receptacle. Both of these circuits must be protected by their own breaker. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
That could only happen if the neutral wire (white) becomes disconnected at either the panel, the meter base or the transformer.
You have to replace the wire (as you are increasing the current capacity), the outlet, and the breaker. Essentially you have to remove the old circuit and put in a new one. You can't reuse parts of the old circuit as you are increasing the current capacity and they would be underrated.
Don't!
You have to find Line 1 and Line 2 to get your 240 volts. Both do not exist in a 115vac panel. If coming from a main panel, you would install a 60amp 2 pole breaker and then run heavier wire to the a/c unit. A sub-panel could be added if no spaces are left tin the main panel.
you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
You will have to install a double pole breaker in the fuse panel and then run new wire (10/3) to the location of the dryer and install the proper plug. You will need a 4 prong plug; the older 3 wire plugs no longer meet code for new work.
Have an electrician wire you a proper line for the appliance. You were just kidding about the 100A, right? 10, or 20amp, not 100.
Does it have a big heavy wire, like your electric dryer, or a little light wire like your refrigerator. All electric cooktops that I know of are 240V. I have never seen one that is 120V.
Use AWG #10 wire on a 20 amp breaker.
With one interpretation of this question, the answer would be two 120V wires and a ground.
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.