The white wire would go to the neutral bar. Just be sure of the shunt trip voltage required for the breaker and land the white wire on the appropriate neutral bar in the correct panel.
Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
It shouldn't. The open end of a non connected neutral should have the same potential as the voltage feeding the circuit. The only time a voltage will show is when the return neutral is tested with a meter to the neutral bar or the ground return bar. It will then show what the supply voltage to the connected load is. Once this neutral is connected to the neutral bar there will be no voltage shown across the test meter between the neutral and the neutral bar or the ground bar.
Because the white wire on a 120 volt circuit is the neutral wire that is connected to the silver screw on outlets and switches. It is connected to the neutral bar in the service panel.
If the sub panel is in the same building remove the bonding screw that bonds the neutral bar to the panels enclosure. Remove the ground from the second ground rod. The sub panel is grounded by the ground wire from the sub panel's feeder. If the panel is separate from the main building treat the sub panel as a separate service. It will need its own ground rods and ground wire from the rods to the neutral bar of the sub panel. Leave the bonding screw in. There will be no ground wire in the conduit between the two services.
To determine if a neutral bar is bonded to the panel, you can check for a bonding strap or screw connecting the bar to the panel enclosure. If there is no physical connection, it is likely not bonded. Additionally, you can use a multimeter to check for continuity between the neutral bar and the panel enclosure.
Unless the panel is the Main Panel (first panel in the system after the service feed) all panels have a neutral bar. Otherwise you are missing pieces. If this is the Main Panel, the neutral bar is bonded to the ground by a bus-bar. If this is the case, neutrals should all be connected to the same side of these bonded bars. Electrically it makes no difference, however it is a good practice to keep electrical panels neat and organized. If this is not the Main Panel and there is no neutral bar, STOP, PUT DOWN THE TOOLS, CALL A PROFESSIONAL. This panel is missing pieces and may be dangerous. It is possible to have a panel without a neutral. This panel would serve only 240 volt loads where no neutral is needed, however I have not seen this done in residential applications.
To wire a floating neutral in a sub panel, you need to ensure that the neutral bar is not bonded to the panel enclosure. This means you should not connect the neutral wire to the panel's metal casing. Instead, connect the neutral wire to the isolated neutral bus bar within the sub panel. Double-check the manufacturer's instructions for proper installation.
The neutral bus bar in a Stab-Lok panel BE116-32 125 amp is typically located on the side or at the bottom of the panel box. It is a metal bar with multiple screw terminals for connecting the neutral wires from branch circuits. Refer to the panel's installation manual or contact a qualified electrician for specific guidance on locating and working with the neutral bus bar.
The term SN refers to a panel or disconnect switch that has solid neutral bar installed. It is a small bar that allows the service conductors to be bonded to the enclosure at that point.
On the desktop, right-click and select "Add panel."
The white wire would go to the neutral bar. Just be sure of the shunt trip voltage required for the breaker and land the white wire on the appropriate neutral bar in the correct panel.
Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
It shouldn't. The open end of a non connected neutral should have the same potential as the voltage feeding the circuit. The only time a voltage will show is when the return neutral is tested with a meter to the neutral bar or the ground return bar. It will then show what the supply voltage to the connected load is. Once this neutral is connected to the neutral bar there will be no voltage shown across the test meter between the neutral and the neutral bar or the ground bar.
main grounding bar inside the electrical panel. This connection is crucial for redirecting excess electrical currents safely into the ground and preventing electrical hazards within the home. The ground rod helps to dissipate electrical charges and provides an additional path for fault currents to travel in case of a short circuit.
The main electric panel is where neutral is bonded to ground. There is usually a screw or strap that connects the two so the same type panel could be used as a subpanel and have the neutral and ground unbonded in subpanel.
You can use the Control Panel to install it.