code states that if a water source such as a sink is within 6 feet of a receptacle, that recetacle (s), must be protected by a GFCI receptacle.
I believe the actual distance is 5 feet. Please forgive me if I'm wrong. But the NEC also requires that ANY counter top receptacles in a kitchen and receptacles ANYWHERE in a bathroom must be GFCI protected.
More directly to your question, ordinary receptacles can be protected from a GFCI receptacle if properly wired. They are designed to do that. It is a way to save money. You may also consider a GFCI breaker if you have many receptacles to protect. I was told once that there is a limit of 3 "piggy backed" receptacles per GFCI but I have never seen that in the NEC.
Yes it is wired with copper 2 wire is also known as 14/2 wire is use for switches,outlets,lights. and a 15a outlet should only be on a 15a breaker the main power feed to your meter to your panel is aluminum and can take more of a load than copper. In the US, 15 amp receptacles can be installed on 20 amp circuits if there is more than one receptacle on that circuit. Copper wire can carry a larger load than aluminum wire of the same size.
It could! If wired in series in a way that is commonly done, linking receptacles on a common circuit, this especially true with GFCI outlets, allowing one GFCI to protect all outlets down stream. However, it would be unusual to find another type of device wired in this way. Regular receptacles have two screws on each side for the hot and neutral wires. A daisy chain of sorts is created when both blacks from two romex cables are connected to the two screws, and this continues down the wall to the next receptacle. Some problem with the receptacle or the wiring could cause a loss of power (or neutral) down the line. One that is obscure to the novice is the break -off tab near the screws. This is used when there is a switch controlling one of the out lets and the other is available as a standard outlet. If such an altered outlet is being reused, or one that some how was broken off, the two screws are no longer connected, and will not make the daisy chain as planned. It is common practice that circuit is provided to an area in new construction, and by code only seven or sometimes eight devices are allowed to be connected. Most often this a room light, some receptacles in that room and possibly receptacles in a wall common to another room. Depending on the routing of the "home run"...the wire from the breaker and the distribution panel... this could be any junction box that is part of this circuit. Problems here can affect any other part! Considering the possibilities of remodeling, upgrading to ceiling fan ...it is hard to tell. If necessary you may have to figure out witch box has the "home run" feed, disconnecting all there and reconstructing the circuits until the problem is isolated.
Answer for USA, Canada and other countries running a 60 Hz supply service.Stop! What...? Don't try to do that...!Don't make a cable with the intention of plugging a generator into an outlet in your house, it is incredibly dangerous!Power from your generator will back-feed into the power lines, posing a severe unexpected shock hazard to any line-workers who may be fixing the lines - the very same reason you are wanting to use your generator!Plug your appliances directly into the outlets on your generator. If you want to power the outlets in your house from the generator you must do it right and install a proper 'generator transfer switch' at the main incoming breaker panel which is situated where the main electricity service cable comes into your house.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Don't know about a ready made device, but, it can be easily done. All you need is a relay, the coil of which is fed from the same power supply as the refrigerator outlet. Take a feed from a different circuit than that of the refrigerator outlet (eg a fed from a lighting circuit) and wire that through the Normally Open contact of the relay and then on to a simple sounder or alarm or electric bell etc, or even a warning light. An electrican could easily whip something like this up, i would think for minimal cost. Or if your keen u could do it yourself.Another answerJust Google "refrigerator alarm" and you should get some good results. Refrigerator alarms are available from as low as $9.99
The wire feed welder is a MIG welder.
It is recommended to have GFCI protection for all electrical outlets in a garage to help reduce the risk of electric shocks. This would typically involve installing a GFCI outlet at the beginning of the circuit to protect the rest of the outlets downstream.
When running outlets in series, it is common practice to use the outlet as a coupler by connecting the incoming and outgoing wires directly to the outlet. This allows for a continuous flow of power between outlets in the series. Pigtail connections are used when branching off to another circuit or device without affecting the rest of the outlets in the series.
Not necessarily you should have a panel feed and a breaker may be tripped. If you have power in the outlet the converter is working.
No, you do not need two ground wires if you split an outlet. The ground wire can be shared between the two new outlets, as long as it is connected properly to both of them. Make sure the ground wire is securely connected to both outlets to ensure proper grounding for safety.
It is possible that the appliance being plugged in is drawing too much power, causing the circuit to overload and trip a breaker. Check that the appliance is not faulty or consuming more power than the outlet is rated for. It is also recommended to have the electrical system inspected by a professional to determine if additional wiring or outlet upgrades are needed.
Generally, no, as GFCIs are designed for one to be a "master" and have the others feed off of it.
A flex outlet is a flexible metal conduit used for running wires in a building, while a spur outlet is an additional power outlet tapped off an existing circuit. Flex outlets provide protection for wiring in areas where it may be exposed to damage, while spur outlets are used to add extra power points in a room without running a new cable back to the main distribution board.
I'm assuming your 3 sets of wires are black or red, or some other color normally associated with the "hot" wire, a white for neutral and a green or bare conductor for ground. If your GFCI protects only itself and no other receptacles, you splice all the wires of the same color together and attach 'pig tails' to your splice to connect to the GFCI. If your GFCI protects other receptacles 'down stream', you connect only the hot and neutral feed from the panel to the line side of the receptacle. Then you splice the others together as described above and connect your pig tails to the load side. "Line" and "load" should be clearly marked on the GFCI. Your ground in this case is still all spliced together with a pigtail for connection to the GFCI. Line is from the panel. Load is to other receptacles. Getting these reversed will prohibit your GFCI from functioning properly.
You can extend power from the old double outlet inside your home to a double outlet outside by running a new electrical line from the existing outlet to the new one. You will need to connect the new outlet to the existing outlet by wiring the hot, neutral, and ground wires appropriately. It is recommended to consult with a licensed electrician to ensure the wiring is done safely and up to code.
They are usually called feed stores, although similar products can be purchased at some grain mills and other outlets.
A GFCI breaker can work when neutrals and grounds are together in the main panel. However, to meet electrical code requirements and ensure proper grounding, it is recommended to install a separate ground bar and separate the neutrals and grounds. This helps to prevent potential electrical issues and ensures the safety of the electrical system.
It's possible that there is a loose connection in the electrical wiring of the light and outlet that is affected by temperature changes. When the air gets warm, the expansion of the wires could cause the loose connection to disconnect, resulting in the light and outlet not working. I recommend contacting a licensed electrician to inspect and repair the issue.