The dryer tripped the breaker. Have it repaired. Don't try to use it again. You could cause a fire.
I removed the switch today 6 July 08. There were two screws in the back of the washer attached to the hinges which allow the top of the dryer to open. Two screws that hold the lint trap to the inside of the dryer and two screws that hold the dryer door switch. After you remove all of the screws you can lift the dryer top from the front and it will rotate on the hinges in the back. Then you can unplug the switch and plug in a new one. Hope this helps.
A circuit breaker is designed to 'break' in a circuit if a short circuit (or other malfunction) occurs. This prevents overheating (or burn-out) of the circuit wires. In older systems, you would need to find which fuse wire has fused and replace it. In a circuit breaker, once the fault has been found and corrected, the breaker is simply switched back on.
Nothing. If your system can run your house while the main breaker to the power grid is off, then back charging will occur as a byproduct while the main breaker to the power grid is on and you are using less power than you are generating. During times of a power outage, you'll want to cut the main breaker to the power grid, so that your system doesn't try to power the entire neighbor hood.
The ground wire should go from the dryer directly back to the distribution panel. An external ground wire is not required. The ground wire that is in the cord set that is connected to the frame of the dryer and the ground wire that is in the feeders coming from the distribution panel, that is connected to the ground terminal in the dryer receptacle, is all that is required to satisfy the code requirement.
The first thing to do would be to unplug everything that might be plugged into that circuit. It might be an external device that is tripping the breaker. If you know an electrician see if he will help you as thing can get complicated with this type of troubleshooting.Usually the wiring in the wall does not fault unless someone has driven a screw or nail into it. The fault will be in the junction box so look for burn marks inside the junction boxes. It could be as simple as a ground wire touching the "hot" terminal of a switch or plug that has just be changed out for a new one. If there was some DIY work done on that circuit, check that part of the circuit out first.The very first thing to do is to turn the breaker off, remove the electrical circuit from the breaker that is tripping and then turn the breaker back on to determine that it is not a faulty breaker. With the circuit wire removed from the breaker, the breaker should not trip. If it does change the breaker out for a new one.The second part of trouble shooting the circuit is going to entail turning the breaker on and off with exposed wiring open at junction boxes. If you are not confident that you can do this, hire an electrician. Trouble shooting this type of electrical fault is time consuming. I like to determine where the middle of the circuit is and open that junction box first. This will let you know if the fault is upstream or downstream from this junction box.Once you determine approximately where the middle junction box of the circuit is, it has to be opened and the wires removed from the device that is located in the box. Make a detailed diagram of how the device is wired into the circuit and what wires are spliced together in the back of the box that you are working on so that the box can be reconnected the same as before you took it apart. Once the wires are all seperated from each other, turn the breaker on and see if the breaker trips off.If it does not then the fault is downstream from this box. Put the wiring back together the same as it was and move on to the next box downstream and do the same procedureon that junction box. If the breaker trips then the wiring has a fault between the breaker and the box you chose to open the circuit at. Again put the wiring back together the same as it was and move on to the next box upstream and do the same procedure on that junction box. Continue with this same type of procedure until you find out what junction box connection is tripping the breaker.
It sounds like only one side/leg of the 220v circuit is connected or part of the breaker is not turned on... first I would check the breaker box... find the two switch breaker that runs the dryer and turn it off and back on. If this does not cure the problem, call the electrician back and tell him to come correct his mistake...
Visually inspect the wire at the short contact point. If there is no copper loss and the wire was not reduced (big crater hole) where the contact was made you are OK. If there was copper loss then cut the wire back to where the conductor is good and reconnect the dryer. There should be no damage to the dryer if it was not turned on. The breaker tripping was doing its job of protecting the wire from the over current.
To properly wire a dryer plug for safe and efficient operation, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the dryer circuit at the breaker box. Remove the cover plate on the back of the dryer to access the wiring terminal block. Connect the white wire to the center terminal, the black wire to one of the outer terminals, and the red wire to the other outer terminal. Connect the green or bare wire to the grounding screw on the dryer. Tighten all connections securely. Replace the cover plate and turn the power back on at the breaker box. Test the dryer to ensure it is working properly.
To properly install a dryer power cord, first make sure the power is turned off. Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Connect the power cord wires to the corresponding terminals, usually color-coded. Tighten the screws securely. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on to test the dryer.
It may not damage the dryer. But....if the dryer tries to use more than 20 amps, or if anything else is connected to the breaker totaling MORE than 20 amps, the breaker will pop. The breaker disconnects (throws, pops, etc.) if there is too much current being drawn. Too many light bulbs, heaters, stoves, etc. This is designed as a safety so that wires don't melt, fires start and so on. Consult the manufacturer to see if is OK. Or at least look at the label on back to see how many amps it uses. If it's even close to 20 amps, it might be good to have an electrician see about upgrading the breaker/ wiring.
To safely install a new wire for your electric dryer, first turn off the power to the dryer at the circuit breaker. Then, remove the old wire and install the new wire following the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to use the correct gauge wire for your dryer and secure all connections tightly. Finally, turn the power back on and test the dryer to ensure it is working properly.
The only reason the dryer breaker will trip is it senses an overload or a short circuit on the circuit. To test this unplug the dryer and see if the breaker will stay latched. If it does then the wiring to the receptacle is not at fault. If you want to delve further into the problem, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the inspection panel at the back of the dryer and check the connections. Sometimes the screw terminals become loose and corroded and cause the dryer to draw more current. To compensate for the higher resistance at the faulty terminals the dryer will try to draw more current that the breaker will allow. If everything looks good after trying both of these things it is time for a repairman to come in and look at the dryer itself, as the fault is probably an internal problem within the dryer body.
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
To install an electric dryer cord, first, make sure the power is turned off. Then, remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Connect the cord's wires to the corresponding terminals, usually color-coded. Tighten the screws securely and replace the access panel. Finally, plug the cord into the outlet and turn on the power to test the dryer.
To properly install a dryer cord, first make sure the power is turned off. Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Connect the white wire to the center terminal, the black wire to the left terminal, and the red wire to the right terminal. Connect the green wire to the grounding screw. Tighten all screws securely and replace the access panel. Turn the power back on and test the dryer to ensure it is working properly.
To properly perform a dryer plug installation in your home, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the dryer circuit at the breaker box. Remove the old plug from the dryer's power cord. Attach the new plug to the power cord, matching the wire colors. Secure the wires in place with the screws provided. Double-check the connections to ensure they are secure. Plug the new plug into the outlet and turn the power back on. Test the dryer to ensure it is working properly.
Not advisable. Both units consume huge amounts of Amps (amperes = current) and the normal 20 or 30 amp breaker may not sustain prolonged operation of both. Where I live, we have two electric meters ... one just for the water heater, the other for the house and all it's electrical needs (except for the water heater).