3.612
A trap on a positive drain is used to avoid the 'contaminated' air in a HVAC system from traveling through the condensate line and entering into areas where it is unwanted. The trap becomes necessary when one condensate line is used for multiple units, especially if it is tied to other negative pressure drain traps. The negative pressure drain traps may not drain properly if they have to overcome the positive non- trapped pressure of another unit. It allows the condensate to drain more evenly, as well. Without a trap, the positive pressure from the unit can blow air through the drain with the water and cause 'spitting.' A trap on a positive pressure system may not always be necessary, but it is good practice to trap every drain and trap it properly. There are guidelines for both positive and negative pressure traps. Always follow the manufacturers recommendations.
An automatic trap primer works by pumping water into a drain trap. The water is sent from a cold water line in small amounts each time the line runs water. There must be an air gap between the drain water and the fresh water line. The simpler manual trap primer is provided by your usage of the drain. For a seldom used drain pour water into it every few months. A little mineral oil in the drain will slow the evaporation by sealing the water from the room air.
under the carborator
Anytime I have plummbed a house, I always start on the far end of the drain system and slowly drop the grade as I work my way to the main drain. Just always remember sh!t rolls downhill. goodluck
To drain the over flow from a tank or fixture
Tank no, you can disconnect the reserve fuel line from the fuel off switch,to drain the tank. The carb has a drain in the bottom of the bowl to drain for storage to prevent fuel gum-up.
easily unattach the hose coming from the tank leading to the carburetor turn the gas ''on'' and drain and then turn to "reserve" and drain the rest of the gas.
Drain plug is on the bottom of the oil reserve under the right side cover... same oil reserve that has the oil (dipstick) in it. It does not get all the oil but most of it. Harley uses a pump and used the oil lines to flush the motor but ya get most of it thru the reserve and the (old) lines can be fragile and may need replacement.
The effect of people holding part of the increase in the money supply as currency, rather than depositing it so that it can be used to create more loans
What I've always done is put the gas tank on reserve and pull the hose that connects from the tank to the carb and have it drain into a gas can. It will get almost all the gas out of the tank.
There should be a drain valve on the boiler. Drain it to the desired water level there.
1. raise gas tank, the radiator cap is there, below the gas tank, open the cap... 2. remove the drain bolt on the water pump cover and drain the system coolant.. 3. disconnect the hose from the reserve coolant tank, end empty the coolant from the reserve tank, and after that connect the hose . 4. re install the drain bolt n fill the coolant from radiator cap, the drain bolt potitions on left side under the engine.
The easiest way is to remove the fuel line from the fuel shut off valve and then use another piece of fuel line to route it into a gas can. Turn the valve to the reserve position and drain the tank.
Artificially kill a drifter. Artificially drain his blood. Artificially add it to desired beverage. Artificially enjoy.
Not on it's own but if applied to a voltage multiplier as found in a Taser gun then yes it could. I don't think the current drain on one cell would be enough for one charge.
Drain the whole thing ... the two fluids mix well. (but a few percent diesel will not hurt a gas engine.)
Turn the gas off, pull the gas line at the carb and place the end of it in a gas can, turn the petcock back on to the reserve position.