At least 14ft and above. Consider the height of the garbage truck.
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The following refers to supply service conductors. No attachment point shall exceed 30 feet. Across highways, streets, lanes and alleys not less than 18 feet. Across driveways to residential garages not less than 14 feet. Across driveways to commercial and industrial premises not less than 16 feet. And across ground accessible to pedestrians only not less than 11 feet. Primary conductors clearances are; 2.5 to 23 Kv clearance is 20 feet, 34.5 Kv clearance is 22 feet, 46 Kv clearance is 23 feet, and 69 KV clearance is 25 feet.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Wiki User
∙ 14y agoWires should typically be installed at a height of 15-20 feet above ground to comply with safety regulations and prevent accidental contact by pedestrians or vehicles. However, the exact height can vary depending on the type of wire, location, and local regulations. It's recommended to consult with a professional electrician or utility company for specific guidance.
No, the ground wire should be attached to the green or bare copper wire. The black wires are typically live or hot wires and should never be connected to the ground wire.
Yes, pigtail grounds can be used in a panel to prevent double lugging on the neutral bus. By connecting multiple ground wires to a single pigtail wire, you can then connect the pigtail wire to the ground bar in the panel, reducing the number of wires connected directly to the bus bar. This helps prevent overcrowding and potential overheating issues on the neutral bus.
No, it's not recommended to have neutral and grounding wires under the same screw in an electrical panel. They serve different purposes and should be connected to separate terminals to ensure proper functioning of the electrical system and to maintain safety standards. Mixing them under the same screw can lead to potential hazards and code violations.
If you are connecting a 4-prong dryer cord to a 3-prong outlet, the extra ground wire (green or bare copper wire) should be left unconnected. Do not try to ground it by connecting it to the neutral terminal or anywhere else. This is to prevent creating a ground loop and potentially causing a safety hazard.
black wire is hot wire .And the white is the common or white is ground. Depends on what your talking about in an outlet or car battery. In a outlet the ground wire is green or bare copper. neutral is red and hot is black (I remember it by hot can kill you so black is death) if I am not mistaken. As for a car battery i think it's the opposite red is hot and black is neutral.
Check ground wires... and all connections.
No, the ground wire should be attached to the green or bare copper wire. The black wires are typically live or hot wires and should never be connected to the ground wire.
No! check with your power company.....
There should be no reason to install two ground wires in the same conduit. Code requires that only a single path should be required if it is to carry a fault current. This ground wire should be single and continuous from the device back to the distribution panel. It is the fault current that is carried on the ground wire that trips the breaker or fault protection device. Don't confuse grounding wires with bonding wires.
There should be 2 or 3 wires. A hot, a neutral and sometimes a ground.
If you are connecting a 4-prong dryer cord to a 3-prong outlet, the extra ground wire (green or bare copper wire) should be left unconnected. Do not try to ground it by connecting it to the neutral terminal or anywhere else. This is to prevent creating a ground loop and potentially causing a safety hazard.
ten feet or more is a nice distance.
The NEC doesn't specify. Generally they are installed vertically with the ground on bottom. In the world that I work in the ground is always installed on top. This is so if a gap exists between an outlet and the plug, anything falling into the gap hits the ground first and not across the hot and neutral wires simultaneously. Expanding on this premise an outlet installed horizontally with the neutral on top is the most safe installation. But I have never seen this done.
Yes, pigtail grounds can be used in a panel to prevent double lugging on the neutral bus. By connecting multiple ground wires to a single pigtail wire, you can then connect the pigtail wire to the ground bar in the panel, reducing the number of wires connected directly to the bus bar. This helps prevent overcrowding and potential overheating issues on the neutral bus.
where are the ground wires located where are the ground wires located where are the ground wires located
Yes, any flexible conduit that has live wires drawn into it must have a ground wire also installed with the "hot" conductors. The reasoning behind this rule is that the flex in the conduit is coiled and has a long length to it. The continuation of the grounding medium through the tightness of the conduit connectors to the flex was not considered a properly secured grounding system so to overcome this weakness in the grounding system, a ground wire now has to be installed.
No, it's not recommended to have neutral and grounding wires under the same screw in an electrical panel. They serve different purposes and should be connected to separate terminals to ensure proper functioning of the electrical system and to maintain safety standards. Mixing them under the same screw can lead to potential hazards and code violations.