There should be no reason to install two ground wires in the same conduit. Code requires that only a single path should be required if it is to carry a fault current. This ground wire should be single and continuous from the device back to the distribution panel. It is the fault current that is carried on the ground wire that trips the breaker or fault protection device. Don't confuse grounding wires with bonding wires.
Black/White/Ground power in and the same out. Tie the incoming and outgoing white wires together under a yellow wire nut and push them back in the box. Tie the ground wires together under a green wire nut and connect the pigtail from those ground wires to the ground screw on the switch. Connect the 2 black wires you have left to the 2 screws on the switch. Doesn't matter which black wire you connect to which screw.
Yes, if possible, connect the grounds to the ground bus bar and the neutrals to the other side on the neutral bus bar. This is just in case you ever install a sub panel. It is not a violation of the NEC code to connect them to the same bus bar but IMO it is unprofessional and can cause problems later on.
The "hot" wire and the neutral wire both carry current (the same amount, in fact) when a load is connected to complete the circuit. The ground wire never carries current except when a fault-to-ground situation occurs. Yes, neutral and ground wires should both be at ground potential, but NO they should not be connected at the outlet.
If you are asking simply a technical question the answer is no, because ground wires do not exist from the panel to the meter. My advice to you is this: If you have an inspector telling you to do something a certain way, do it his way unless in your professional opinion you believe to do so would be unsafe. What is properly called a ground wire, or what the NEC calls a groundING conductor (as opposed to the groundED conductor) does not run from the meter to the panel. From the meter to the panel you will have the groundED conductor, which is the neutral, and possibly a bonding jumper. The bonding jumper is probably what you are referring to as the ground wire. The code requires that all components of a service be bonded together. The components for a common home are just the meter and panel, but may also include a separate disconnect, junction box, or CT box. Typically the bonding jumper is run in the same raceways as the service conductors, but since the NEC prohibits any other conductors in a raceway that carries service conductors some jurisdictions do not allow the jumper to be inside the raceway or conduit. Technically the bonding jumper is not a conductor even if it is a wire. Grounding and Bonding are 2 of the largest sections of the NEC and the most misunderstood. To the untrained eye they look alike as they both often use green or bare wires to accomplish their tasks. Understanding the difference, the proper difference, between grounding and bonding is a step in the right direction but many professional electricians use the terms improperly and cannot make a reasonable explanation of what is the purpose for each. I invite answers from other electricians as I'm sure my explanation is much more complicated than the questioner wanted or needed.
GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interruptor. It inherently works by detecting ground current; when ground current is detected above a low threshold, the GFCI will trip. Some GFCIs also may provide phase overcurrent protection (such as the two phase wires being shorted together) as well. *************************************************************** It is a differential current detector. The line (or live, phase or hot) and the neutral wires of an a.c. supply should both be carrying the same value of current. (The current comes from the generator and goes to the load through the line and neutral wires and goes back to the generator.) If there is a difference in the in the two wires, it can only be because there is a fault which has allowed some current to flow to Earth ("ground"). As long as the two currents are equal, the interruptor stays closed. Once an imbalance is detected, the interruptor operates and disconnects the supply.
Not usually. The emergency light wiring is using DC voltages and should not be mixed with AC wiring. In some installations the raceway will have barriers. Separation of DC, instrumentation and power cables is allowed if the raceway has barriers installed, and are used for these separate types of wiring.
Black/White/Ground power in and the same out. Tie the incoming and outgoing white wires together under a yellow wire nut and push them back in the box. Tie the ground wires together under a green wire nut and connect the pigtail from those ground wires to the ground screw on the switch. Connect the 2 black wires you have left to the 2 screws on the switch. Doesn't matter which black wire you connect to which screw.
Do what I do: rip the sub box off the driver's side of the trunk and start chasing wires. This is how I found that the factory did a shoddy install on my sub for my 08 GTS, running the power and ground wires for the sub on the same side of the vehicle, causing an annoying hissing sound. I re-rerouted the ground wire and my hiss went away, and best of all, I didn't have to deal with a dealer's B.S.
Not to be rude but that is a BIG no!! You would think that it would be the easiest way but its not. With most pioneer CD receivers they come with a quick disconnect wiring harness. Not only that the colors on the wires are different. Granted they still have the same red, and black wires which are the ignition wire and the ground. the best solution to this would be to compare both manuals and compare the wires before you install the new system.
in the same raceway or close proximity
The benefits of using a cable management raceway is that it does not require gas and can help the environment and help the owner of the property same money.
No, it's not recommended to have neutral and grounding wires under the same screw in an electrical panel. They serve different purposes and should be connected to separate terminals to ensure proper functioning of the electrical system and to maintain safety standards. Mixing them under the same screw can lead to potential hazards and code violations.
Yes. Its commonly done - check your car.
The main electric panel is where neutral is bonded to ground. There is usually a screw or strap that connects the two so the same type panel could be used as a subpanel and have the neutral and ground unbonded in subpanel.
You remove them one at a time, and install the new one the same way.
Power lines and phone lines though using the same utility poles are two different sets of wires. Telephone wires carry their own power, separate from the power lines and are insulted while power lines are not. If the telephone wires are unbroken but laying on the ground the wires will not short to ground while an unbroken uninsulated power line will short to ground disrupting service.
Yes, if possible, connect the grounds to the ground bus bar and the neutrals to the other side on the neutral bus bar. This is just in case you ever install a sub panel. It is not a violation of the NEC code to connect them to the same bus bar but IMO it is unprofessional and can cause problems later on.