First off, this is bad practice and it doesn't meet code. Secondly, you don't have all the wires for a modern 120V connection. You have 3 wires coming into this circuit. Two are known to be hot. The third may be neutral or may be ground, depending on the outlet or wiring. If it is neutral (white wire) you can get 120V betwen this wire and either hot. Problem is you don't have ground. You can get away with a two prong plug and it may be fine, but you have to judge that depending on what you are powering. If the third wire is ground, sorry. Ground is a dedicated safety line and should carry current only in fault conditions. Don't use it as your neutral.
Also, if you do install this device, you need to take the overcurrent device into account. You want the weakest link in you chain of wiring devices to be the circuit breaker, and nothing else. So if you want to put a 15A outlet on a 50A circuit, you will need some sort of 15A overcurrent device in there. Either derate the circuit or add a breaker to your pigtail, if necessairy. (Also, if you derate you can drop the circuit to 120V and this whole discussion becomes moot.)
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
It is possible. For instance if you have a 30 amp 240 wiring to a appliance, you can tap a 120 out of it. You will need a small sub panel to do this. From there you will feed the the 120v and the 240v circuits. Check with your local codes to veriy.
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.
just leave the neutral wire as it is and connect the other two !!
4 wire household wiring is black, red, (hot wires) white (neutral) and bare or green (ground wire). You say 3 wires. Is it 120v or 240v. If its 240v which is more common just use the two hots and the ground and cap off the neutral wire.
You will need an electrician. No. That dryer draws a maximum of 7200 Watts. The regular 120V outlets around your home can supply 1800W. So any type of converter will not work. If you have an electric range, the outlet for that is the only outlet in the apartment big enough for this. You can make an adapter if you really want to go down that road. How to do that has been answered a number of times on this site. Keep in mind this will involve pulling the oven out every Tim you want to do a load. If it is gas you are out of luck. Really you have two good options:1) Have the correct outlet installed. You shouldn't do this yourself for liability reasons (Burning down apartment complexes tends to be pricy.) Your landlord may install one for you if you are nice, and, more than likely, will let you have one installed if you pay for it. 2) Sell your old dryer and buy one that matches the hookups. You'll have to see which is fiscally wise.
It may not blow, but it will turn twice as fast and burn out very quickly. It is meant for 110 only. Check the sump pump. Some of them can be wired either 120v or 240v. If yours is like that, just wire the motor for 240v and plug it in.
Don't!
You have to replace the wire (as you are increasing the current capacity), the outlet, and the breaker. Essentially you have to remove the old circuit and put in a new one. You can't reuse parts of the old circuit as you are increasing the current capacity and they would be underrated.
If the 240V 3-phase service is 240V phase-to-phase, then you can get 240V single-phase by simply picking two phases (poles, as used in the question) and connecting the load across them. This is simply one third of a standard delta connection. If you need 120V/240V split phase, i.e. with a neutral, as used in residential services, you will need a transformer. If the service is actually a four wire "quadraplex" service, however, you will probably already have that 120V/240V with neutral connection phase available. In this case, you will need to pick the two phases correctly in order to get the proper 120V service half.
With one interpretation of this question, the answer would be two 120V wires and a ground.
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.
I'm sure this isn't what you want to hear, but you probably need to ask an electrician familiar with your service and what you want to connect. As a general answer, you can connect a 240v line to line resistive load like an electric water heater to any 240v source. If you also need the 240v to have 120v line to neutral, like a 240v electric stove that contains a 120v clock and oven light, then its possible if the 3 phase power is connected in a "high delta" configuration, and you connect to the correct leads. If you have a high delta service and want to ignore the 3-phase power service and wire most or all of the loads in the building as a single phase load, the utility may have to be consulted.
Have an electrician wire you a proper line for the appliance. You were just kidding about the 100A, right? 10, or 20amp, not 100.
just leave the neutral wire as it is and connect the other two !!
Assuming the wiring to the outlet has 2 loads and one neutral, isolate one load from the outlet and use the neutral as the common. be sure to ground from the receptacle to your conduit or ground lead. You should also replace the corresponding breaker with a 120 volt single breaker.
What specifically are you wiring? A light bulb would operate dim, a motor will burn up. The current increases thereby requiring larger wire and current protection.
Oh yes. They do provide 2-wire 220V and even 2-Wire 240V service in Europe. We went a different way in the States early on when we attached a center-tap wire in those same service transformers to provide 2 x 110V services, along with one 220V service. It is worthy to mention that 110V (220V) services in the US progressed to 115 (230V) and now stand at 120V (240V).
4 wire household wiring is black, red, (hot wires) white (neutral) and bare or green (ground wire). You say 3 wires. Is it 120v or 240v. If its 240v which is more common just use the two hots and the ground and cap off the neutral wire.