Yes.
Generally speaking you should use only existing knock outs. But it is certainly acceptable to make your own access. Be careful to use the correct connector, if required, and that your connector and wire do not interfere with installing the device safely into the box.
Yes, provided that you have a ground wire in the box and that the ground wire is properly connected in the electric panel.
Power into the first outlet and out to all other outlets, black to gold and white to silver screw, ground wires to ground screw. From the outlet closest to the light switch run power from that outlet up to the switch box. Run another wire from the switch box up to the light. In the switch box tie all the whites together under a wire nut and push them back into the box. Tie all the ground wires together and connect that to the ground screw on the switch. Connect the 2 black wires you have left to the 2 screws on the switch. Does not matter which if you only have power in and power out to the light.
If the wiring system into which you are installing an outlet has no ground available, use an ungrounded outlet. In an ungrounded system, an outlet with a ground contact would allow the outlet user to mistakenly, and perhaps dangerously, assume that a ground was present. A suitable ground may be available as a ground wire accompanying the hot and neutral wires in the cable, or a ground may be available via conductive conduit and a metal outlet box. In any case, use a tester to confirm the integrity of the assumed ground. A voltage test from the hot wire to the ground should show the same voltage as between hot and neutral (the black and white wires respectively). If you are replacing an ungrounded outlet, you need not assume there is no ground present. You may find, in the box, ground wires that were not connected to the outlet. You may come across grounded outlets that have no ground wire attached because they rely on grounding via the mounting screws through the outlet ears to the metal box. This is a less reliable grounding method. It is better to buy a ground-wire "pigtail," fasten the wire directly to a hole in the metal box with the supplied screw, and attach the other end of the ground wire to the outlet via the outlet's ground screw.
More to the point is how are YOU going to get wire to and from the box. Installing the box is the easy part. You first find a stud and measure the box dimensions onto it with one side almost touching the stud. Now, using a 'Keyhole' saw or drywall saw, cut out the box shape. At this point, I insert a 'fish' tape and pull the wire through, usually from the top. I pull the wire out enough to feed into the box and then push the box into the cut shape. Then screw the box into the stud obliquely, or if you've got an 'old work' box, turn the screws on the box to fix the 'ears' and secure the box. Now you can wire the outlet or switch in. -Turn off power first .
Just make it a junction box. Remove the outlet, tie the blacks together under a wire nut. The the whites together under a wire nut. Tie the ground wires together under a wire nut. Push all the wires back into the outlet box and cover it with a blank cover. Paint the cover the same color as the wall. Do not sheet-rock over the outlet box. All junction boxes must be accessible.
Guessing you are replaceing an outlet? Black goes on the copper colored terminal and white on the same side that has the ground terminal. If you have checked and made sure that white is in fact the neutral you can run a jump wire from the side terminal to the ground. This will ground whatever you plug into the outlet as long as it has a 3 prong plug.
The wire is normally run above the box height.
Yes, provided that you have a ground wire in the box and that the ground wire is properly connected in the electric panel.
Shut the power off to the recepticle. Then take apart the old outlet. Wire up the new outlet. The only difference between the old and the new will be the grounding. If BX armour cable is used, then you will need to take a jumper wire from the grounding nut on the outlet and connect it to the box with a grounding screw. This wire must be green. If romex has been used, then there is a gounding wire that is in the bundle of the wires coming into the box. If it a metal box, then you must use a grounding screw and ground that wire to the boc and then connect that same wire to the outlet. If its a plastic box, then just wire the ground to the outlet. I also like to wrap the outlet in electrical tape, just incase the the wires were to come loose, they would note hit against the box shorting out. Finally, put the pieces back together. And your DONE!
Power into the first outlet and out to all other outlets, black to gold and white to silver screw, ground wires to ground screw. From the outlet closest to the light switch run power from that outlet up to the switch box. Run another wire from the switch box up to the light. In the switch box tie all the whites together under a wire nut and push them back into the box. Tie all the ground wires together and connect that to the ground screw on the switch. Connect the 2 black wires you have left to the 2 screws on the switch. Does not matter which if you only have power in and power out to the light.
The black wire originating from a breaker box or fuse box is the live wire. However, in certain cases, the grey (or white) neutral wire can also be live. For example, the black wire may feed a lighting outlet, and if the neutral wire is broken on its way back to the neutral bar in the panel, then the neutral wire from the lighting outlet will be hot, because there is an electrical path from the black wire, through the light, and to the neutral. The point is, always check with a voltmeter before assuming the white or grey wire is not live.
Wires are not to be spliced or otherwise connected except in an approved electrical box. The box should be accessible, such as an electric outlet or switch box. If you decide to NOT use the box as an outlet or switch box, make certain that you use a blank cover.
If the wiring system into which you are installing an outlet has no ground available, use an ungrounded outlet. In an ungrounded system, an outlet with a ground contact would allow the outlet user to mistakenly, and perhaps dangerously, assume that a ground was present. A suitable ground may be available as a ground wire accompanying the hot and neutral wires in the cable, or a ground may be available via conductive conduit and a metal outlet box. In any case, use a tester to confirm the integrity of the assumed ground. A voltage test from the hot wire to the ground should show the same voltage as between hot and neutral (the black and white wires respectively). If you are replacing an ungrounded outlet, you need not assume there is no ground present. You may find, in the box, ground wires that were not connected to the outlet. You may come across grounded outlets that have no ground wire attached because they rely on grounding via the mounting screws through the outlet ears to the metal box. This is a less reliable grounding method. It is better to buy a ground-wire "pigtail," fasten the wire directly to a hole in the metal box with the supplied screw, and attach the other end of the ground wire to the outlet via the outlet's ground screw.
Sure. For a light you need a fixture to hold the light and the light itself. The light needs to be connected to a voltage supply which you can get from the outlet. In the outlet box you will have a black, white and bare ground wire. Essentially you connect the white and bare wires directly to the light and switch the black wire (hot) through a switch.
More to the point is how are YOU going to get wire to and from the box. Installing the box is the easy part. You first find a stud and measure the box dimensions onto it with one side almost touching the stud. Now, using a 'Keyhole' saw or drywall saw, cut out the box shape. At this point, I insert a 'fish' tape and pull the wire through, usually from the top. I pull the wire out enough to feed into the box and then push the box into the cut shape. Then screw the box into the stud obliquely, or if you've got an 'old work' box, turn the screws on the box to fix the 'ears' and secure the box. Now you can wire the outlet or switch in. -Turn off power first .
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Just make it a junction box. Remove the outlet, tie the blacks together under a wire nut. The the whites together under a wire nut. Tie the ground wires together under a wire nut. Push all the wires back into the outlet box and cover it with a blank cover. Paint the cover the same color as the wall. Do not sheet-rock over the outlet box. All junction boxes must be accessible.