However, if you no longer want 220V at this fixture you can derate it to 110V. The key here is the current capacity of the old wire. You cannot exceede the current capacity of the wire as that is a fire hazard. Also the fixture must be on a dedicated circuit. You cannot mix 110 and 220, you have to derate the whole circuit. To derate:
Always, if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing, buy a book. It will answer your questions and serve as a handy reference during the job. Do it right or hire a professional. Negligence is fatal with electricity.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
The breaker will have a black wire connected to it. Turn off the main breaker and then disconnect that black wire from the breaker. The breaker will snap into the main bar. Remove the breaker and install the new one. Reconnect the black wire to the breaker and then install the cover and turn the main breaker back on.
it's a circuit breaker
If you need a 220v circuit at only 15 or 20 amps: Get a new breaker to replace your 110v single pole breaker with a 220v double pole breaker. (You cannot exceed the original breaker's amperage rating unless you also replace the wire with a larger size). Shut off the panel's main breaker (the wires coming into the main breaker will remain hot, so don't touch them.) Remove the old 110v circuit's neutral (white) from the neutral bus bar in your distribution panel. Remove the old 110v circuit's hot (black) from the old 110v breaker. Remove the old 110v breaker. Install the new 220v breaker in place of the old breaker. (This may require you to rearrange some breakers if the old breaker was in between others) Reconnect the black wire to one terminal of the 220v breaker, and reconnect the white wire to the other terminal. Turn on the main breaker, and your new 220v breaker. Before you do this, be sure where the actual circuit goes. Changing 110v to 220v if the circuit is feeding regular 110v receptacles will cause damage to devices plugged into them. Be sure you remove all 110v devices (receptacles) from the circuit before converting it. If you need a 220v circuit for a dryer or other large appliance, your existing wiring will not be sufficient to do the above. You will need to install a new breaker and wiring. For this task, you should consult a professional electrician.
Depending on how the two wires are connected in the circuit ,one scenario is the breaker to that circuit will trip.
Simple. The branch circuit you're feeding with the breaker should have a black, (hot), a white (neutral), and a bare ground wire. The bare ground gets screwed under the ground bar with the other grounds. The black wire goes under the appropriate screw on the breaker. Also the neutral goes to the breaker under the screw with a white dot by it. Then the curled up white wire attached to the breaker gets screwed into the neutral bar where all the other white wires are.
One hot (black or red) one neutral(white) and green or bare copper (ground). Cap off and wire tape off any wires not used. Disconnect that wire that is not used from the breaker in the service circuit breaker box.and test before putting into service.
The 30 A breaker you seem to be describing is a 240V breaker. There should be two black wires or perhaps a black and red wire connected to the two screws on the breaker. So the breaker would trip if more than 30A was demanded by the load with 240V across the load. What you have connected to the breaker should be sized such that the total current is no more than 80% of the 30 A.
A ground fault circuit breaker detects leakage current between the hot wire coming off the breaker and the neutral/ground since the neutral is bonded to the ground in the panel, if it senses a current of 6 milliamps or more it will trip. Note: no sharing of the neutral for a circuit on a ground fault breaker If a few milliamps from the hot (black) wire do not return on the neutral (white) wire, then a GFCI assumes that current it traveling harmfully elsewhere through your body. So it disconnects. A GFCI can monitor 15,000 milliamps. But if only 5 go missing, then a GFCI trips.
Yes. Just connect the black wire to one of the poles and the white wire to the white bus bar. Make sure the wire you use is sized for the ampere rating of the breaker. 15 A = 14 AWG, 20 A = 12 AWG and 30 A = 10 AWG.
well, the easy answer is, black wire to one pole of the breaker, white wire to the neutral bus with all the other white wires, bare wire to the ground bus with all the other bare (or green) wires. BUT the breaker must be 20 amps or less for residential outlets and you much match the wire size to the breaker, #14 for 15 amp breaker, #12 for a 20 amp breaker AND if there is only going to be one outlet, if it is a 20 amp circuit, the outlet has to be rated for 20 amps. Yes, but why would you want to? It is unclear to anybody else what you are doing and therefore a hazard. Do it right. Use a single pole breaker designed for 110V.
Typical voltage to a residential cooktop would be 208 V. It is usually a three or four wire hookup. The wires will go to a two pole circuit breaker. A black wire will connect to one pole of the circuit breaker, a red wire to the other pole on the circuit breaker. The white wire is the neutral and the green wire is the ground. Always consult an electrician if you're not sure!
double bugged. An illegal wiring connection.