You need a 3 conductor wire with ground. For example if you had a 30 amp breaker for that outlet you would need 10awg 3w/ground. That's 10 gauge 3 conductor with ground and replace the old wire back to the panel.
Shut the power off to the recepticle. Then take apart the old outlet. Wire up the new outlet. The only difference between the old and the new will be the grounding. If BX armour cable is used, then you will need to take a jumper wire from the grounding nut on the outlet and connect it to the box with a grounding screw. This wire must be green. If romex has been used, then there is a gounding wire that is in the bundle of the wires coming into the box. If it a metal box, then you must use a grounding screw and ground that wire to the boc and then connect that same wire to the outlet. If its a plastic box, then just wire the ground to the outlet. I also like to wrap the outlet in electrical tape, just incase the the wires were to come loose, they would note hit against the box shorting out. Finally, put the pieces back together. And your DONE!
Do not use this type of cable to feed a 120/240V dryer outlet. The outlet is ungrounded, and the third conductor is neutral not ground. Your ground wire must be sheathed by code. You cannot use the bare neutral conductor as ground. Diagram Did Not Come Through. You Have a 3 Prong Connector. The Prong On The Bottom By Its Self Connect The Bare Wire. That Is What Was # 3 Connect The Others To The Two Prongs Next To Each Other. Hope This Makes Some Sense (1) (2) (3) Connect White To (1), Connect Black To (2) Bare (3) Good Luck
Do you mean a 3 wire receptacle? You say cable,are you talking like extension cord type or interior romex wiring? If romex, you should have a black, white and bare(green or ground)and possibly a red if a 4 wire . Connect black to gold on the receptacle,white to silver and ground to the green screw.
Sometimes called an extension cable or power board, it "lengthens" the reach of your electrical outlet.
It's probably more difficult than you might expect. I'm assuming you have a NEMA 5-15R outlet, and you want to plug in a dryer that has a NEMA 14-30P plug at the end of its electric cable. The NEMA 5-15R outlet is by far the most common type of outlet in North America. It has two flat slots (hot and neutral), and a round safety ground hole. It is rated for 15 A and 125 V. On the other hand, most electric clothes dryers have an electric cable with a NEMA 14-30P plug on the end. It has two flat slots (2 hots from 2 different phases, each one 120 V from neutral, and each one rated at 30 A), an L slot (neutral), and a round safety plug. It is possible for an electrician to "fish" a electric cable carrying the necessary phases through the wall from the fuse box to that outlet, and then pull the old outlet and install a new outlet. If one merely did that last part -- pulled the old outlet and placed a new outlet -- without the proper electrical cables in the wall behind it, then the dryer would probably blow the fuse at the fusebox every time it was turned on.
It's a different type of wiring inside of the cable. It makes a clearer picture and doesnt go out as often. Its normally more expensive to install though.
If the wiring system into which you are installing an outlet has no ground available, use an ungrounded outlet. In an ungrounded system, an outlet with a ground contact would allow the outlet user to mistakenly, and perhaps dangerously, assume that a ground was present. A suitable ground may be available as a ground wire accompanying the hot and neutral wires in the cable, or a ground may be available via conductive conduit and a metal outlet box. In any case, use a tester to confirm the integrity of the assumed ground. A voltage test from the hot wire to the ground should show the same voltage as between hot and neutral (the black and white wires respectively). If you are replacing an ungrounded outlet, you need not assume there is no ground present. You may find, in the box, ground wires that were not connected to the outlet. You may come across grounded outlets that have no ground wire attached because they rely on grounding via the mounting screws through the outlet ears to the metal box. This is a less reliable grounding method. It is better to buy a ground-wire "pigtail," fasten the wire directly to a hole in the metal box with the supplied screw, and attach the other end of the ground wire to the outlet via the outlet's ground screw.
What you term as a four wire cable is known as a three wire cable in the electrical trade. The ground wire is not counted in the cable set as it is not a current carrying conductor. Turn the power off to the circuit in question. Remove the three prong outlet from the junction box. If you see a red, black, white and bare ground then you have a three wire cable feeding the receptacle. If this is what you see and the purpose of this question is to see if it can be changed to utilize a new four blade recepticle then the answer is yes.
You cap the gas pipe and run 8/3 electric cable to the location if it's fairly close. Install it in an outlet box for range plugs. If you are not familiar with electricity, hire an electrician.
A charger (like cable - plugs into an outlet) and charges from an outlet on the wall...?
If you want to install a phase converter, there are specific directions that you must follow. First, shut off the electricity to the device. Next, install the converter in a dry and vibration free environment. Install a ground cable that will run from the device to the converter.
Something is shorted to ground.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Now disconnect the other end from its ground point. Take that cable to you local auto parts store and buy a replacement. Reverse the procedure to install it.
The black cable is the negative or ground. The red cable is the hot or positive calbe.
Attaching a cable from point to point. Such as connecting a cable from the Cable t.v. outlet in the wall to the back of your t.v. Not wireless.
cable
Powed cords always plug into an outlet.