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Need to know the running amp draw. Starting amps would be useful l too. The average amp draw for a simple 1hp motor is about 7 amps, such as a fan motor. Ohms law says amps times voltage = watts, so 7 amp times 120v=840 watts. Consider that starting amperage is about 1-1/2 times running load, starting watts would be about 1200. You would need about a 1200 watt inverter to run that motor.
A pool pump motor which is drawing half the amps listed on its nameplate can indicate a problem with the windings or a lack of incoming current. Pumps will only draw as many amps as are required to operate under the current load.
Assuming a household voltage of 120 volts and a power factor of about .8 for the fan motor we have watts = volts x amps x PF. Amps = 90 / (.8 x 120) = 3 / 3.2 = .94 amps
A 15 amp should be fine, provided that #14 wire is used for the outlet. If #12 is used, then use a 20 amp breaker. Depending on what the motor voltage is makes a difference on what the wire size is. A 3/4 HP motor draws 13.8 amps at 115 volts and 6.9 amps at 230 volts. The motor feeder conductor must have an ampacity at least equal to 125% of the full load current rating of the motor. 13.8 x 125% = 17.25 amps. The conductor required on a motor using 120 volts is #12 rated at 20 amps. The breaker for this motor needs to be rated at 30 amps.
8 AWG. <<>> Electrical code wire sizing for motors has to be at 125% of the rated motor current. So the wire has to have the ability to handle 45 + 11.25 = 56.25 amps. A #6 copper conductor with an insulation rating of 75 or 90 degrees C is rated at 65 amps.
Need to know what the voltage of the motor is.
Full load amps is the maximum rated amps that the motor should draw according to its nameplate rating. Running load amps is the actual amperage the motor is drawing at that point in time when the test is taken. Some motor loads vary depending on if the load is cyclic. The reading on this type of motor would be from no load amps to full load amps.
Watts = Volts times Amps. Therefore, if the voltage was 220 volts, the motor would draw 500 amps. If the voltage was 4,000 volts, the motor would draw 27.5 amps. The voltages for large powerful motors tend to be relatively high, for example in the 380 Volts to 11,500 Volts range.
FLA is the nameplate amperage rating of the motor when it is running at its designed horsepower and on the motors designed voltage. 746 watts = 1 HP. The FLA of a 1 HP motor at 240 volts would be W = amps x volts, Amps = Watts/Voltage. 746/240 = 3.1 amps full load. Overload the motor and the amps go higher, motor running at no load amps are lower than FLA
Need to know the running amp draw. Starting amps would be useful l too. The average amp draw for a simple 1hp motor is about 7 amps, such as a fan motor. Ohms law says amps times voltage = watts, so 7 amp times 120v=840 watts. Consider that starting amperage is about 1-1/2 times running load, starting watts would be about 1200. You would need about a 1200 watt inverter to run that motor.
A pool pump motor which is drawing half the amps listed on its nameplate can indicate a problem with the windings or a lack of incoming current. Pumps will only draw as many amps as are required to operate under the current load.
T430.247 of the NEC shows that a 1 hp motor operating at full load on 115v will draw 16 amps, called Full Load Current (FLC). Conductors supplying this motor are required to be 125% of FLC which is 20 amps. Motor circuits are complicated things and do not follow the rules of other circuits. This motor, while drawing a maximum of 16 amps at full load and supplied with #12 AWG copper conductors can be protected by a breaker of 40 amps.
Assuming a household voltage of 120 volts and a power factor of about .8 for the fan motor we have watts = volts x amps x PF. Amps = 90 / (.8 x 120) = 3 / 3.2 = .94 amps
"Locked Rotor Current" also called LRA which stands for Locked Rotor Amps, is commonly found on electric motor nameplates. Locked Rotor essentially means the motor is not turning. The current or amps in this case have to do with the amount of electrical energy required to start the motor. At the instant the motor is switched on, it is not turning, and draws the maximum current. As the motor starts to turn, the current goes down. This required energy is much greater than the Full Load Amps or Running Amps, which is the current drawn when the motor is running at normal speed under full load. The current required to start the motor will depend on the type of motor as well as the specified design voltage required for the motor, typically the higher the voltage, the lower the required amperage or current. The term also applies to equipment such as Air Conditioners which have an enclosed motor inside the compressor, as well as the condenser fan(s) etc. Depending on the type of motor, LR current can be anywhere from 3 to 8 times the normal running current, also called RLA, or running load amps.
Measure the current on the incoming side of the starter.
Full load amps is the amperage at which the motor was designed to work at to achieve its rated horsepower. Service factor amps is the amount of a periodic overload at which a motor can operate without overload or damage. Continuous operation within the service factor amps will shorten the insulation and motor bearing life of the motor as the motor will be operating at a higher temperature than it was designed to.
A 15 amp should be fine, provided that #14 wire is used for the outlet. If #12 is used, then use a 20 amp breaker. Depending on what the motor voltage is makes a difference on what the wire size is. A 3/4 HP motor draws 13.8 amps at 115 volts and 6.9 amps at 230 volts. The motor feeder conductor must have an ampacity at least equal to 125% of the full load current rating of the motor. 13.8 x 125% = 17.25 amps. The conductor required on a motor using 120 volts is #12 rated at 20 amps. The breaker for this motor needs to be rated at 30 amps.