no you must run a dedicated line
NO
Yes, with a caveat. The current ratings must be the same, the the 110V outlet must be a dedicated circuit, i.e. nothing else on that breaker. You can safely upgrade a dedicated 110V 15A circuit to a 220V 15A circuit by re-using the same wiring. You will have to just replace the breaker and the outlet. You cannot, however, increase the current load or have a 110/220V (4-prong) outlet. Note that if you move a non-dedicated circuit up to 220 you will start a fire.
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Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
Most residences have two 110-120V separate supplies that are combined to provide double the voltage or 220-240V. So you get 220V between hot of each 110V supply. Hence, hot to hot. A 270V system would typically not be in a residence, but a commercial establishment and is provided as a separate supply from a transformer. Hence the 270V is supplied hot to ground.
Assuming you are talking about a 120/240v delta system the color coding is as follows. Phase A(120v)-Black Phase B(208v "Wild leg/High phase")-Orange Phase C(120v)-Blue There are other color coding methods but this is the most common.
If the transformer has two separate windings, then, YES a step-down can be used as a step-up, and vice-versa.It is more correct to say you are reversing the high and low sides.By definition Primary is the "IN" side and Secondary is the "OUT" side.The Primary could be the high voltage side if it is a step-down,or it could be the low voltage side, if it is a step-up.Design ConsiderationsCare must be taken when reversing the operation of a step-down transformer to insure that it does not exceed the ratings of the transformer. For example, let's say we have a 12 VA step-down transformer that takes 120Vac in and is rated to provide 12V at 1 amp at the secondary. If we were to reverse it and apply 12Vac to the new primary (the old secondary), we would have 120Vac at the new secondary, but to keep within the original ratings it could only be loaded to 0.1A @ 120Vac.As long as you treat the output rating of the step-down transformer as the input rating as a step-up transformer, and don't try to draw current beyond what would normally have been applied to the high voltage primary, you should be fine. Potentially one could push up the voltage on such a transformer beyond what its stated application specified, while making sure not to exceed the power rating of the transformer and not exceeding the breakdown voltage of the transformer's insulation, for example driving the above transformer at 24V to get 0.05A @ 240Vac. It is important to realize though that the rated input voltage for a step-down transformer will likely not be a safe input voltage if you use it as a step-up transformer - for example, applying 120V to the above transformer with the windings reversed would generate 1.2KV!One important point to remember when reversing a three-phase transformer to a step-up is what kind of windings it has. Most three-phase transformers use a "delta" configuration on the primary side. This means that there are three "hot wires" and a ground, but not a neutral. (The white wire in a circuit). On the secondary side, transformers are usually wired up in a "Wye" (sometimes called a "star" configuration. Doing this allows the transformer to create a Neutral connection. If a step-down transformer is reversed to make it a step-up, the high (output) side will not have a Neutral connection. If one is not needed, say for a three-phase welding machine, this would not be a probem. However, if a Neutral IS needed ,say for lighting, reversing this transformer would not work. In this case, a listed step-up transformer will be needed. One final thing, if a step-down transformer is used as a step-up, a Neutral wire is not required to be connected to the input side.
Moisture entered inside the transformer coil may cause loss of IR value. IR value can be increased by removing the moisture. Keep the transformer in a hot air chamber for sufficient time to vaporize the moisture.
Because they are "in-phase". In order to get 240v, you need two 120v Alternating Current lines that are 180° out of phase, that is, opposite phases. Only when one line is +120v and the other -120v will you see 240v between the wires.
Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
You would need a step-up transformer or voltage converter to plug a device with a 240V AC plug into a 110V AC supply. Make sure the converter can handle the wattage of your device and has the correct plug type for your country.
Most residences have two 110-120V separate supplies that are combined to provide double the voltage or 220-240V. So you get 220V between hot of each 110V supply. Hence, hot to hot. A 270V system would typically not be in a residence, but a commercial establishment and is provided as a separate supply from a transformer. Hence the 270V is supplied hot to ground.
The transformer steps down the voltage from 600kilo volts which is what is at the power pole/lines to multiple strands of 120v or hot wires which is what your house runs off of.
No, using a 120V cord in a 240V socket is not safe and can damage the appliance or create a fire hazard. The thickness of the cord does not affect the voltage compatibility. Make sure to use the correct voltage cord for the appliance to avoid any safety issues.
Not a hard job or complicated but could be hazardous. Hire a professional.
Absolutely not. In the U.S. all power is 120v on a single line (one hot, one neutral, one ground) overseas all power is 230v on a single line. Will fry your unit. You can however by a step down or up transformer fairly cheaply at radio shack.
I think I understand what you are asking. 3-phase motors usually are equipped with a starter or contactor, since all 3 hot wires need to be switched. The control voltage that runs the starters is 120V, because it's safer and also 120V switches and relays are cheaper. You would have a 480-120V transformer (called a control transformer) in the starter box to provide the 120V "control voltage". So the arrangement you describe would have two contactors, with two phases reversed between them. Energize one, and the motor runs forward. Energize the other, and it runs reverse. The switch sends 120V to each of the contactors, which are equipped with 120V coils.
you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
So what's your question? 110V would be hot to neutral/ground. 220V is hot-to-hot (phase to phase).
Five wires. Two on the primary side, connected to each 120V leg, giving a primary voltage of 240V. Two on the secondary side, one connected to neutral, and the other the new 480V hot. One connecting the frame of the transformer and the box containing it to ground. Note: you will only get one phase power out of this configuration - to get three phase output, you need three phase input, three transformers, and a lot more wires.