No, it's not necessarily a blown voice coil. I am actually going through this right now. I found 2 months ago that suggested I take the woofer out of the box and look at it and inspect it. Sure enough, I noticed 1 tiny wire separated in an awkward spot beneath the woofer. I believe by re-attaching this wire the problem will be corrected, mind you I had the same problem as far as pushing it in.
a voice coil is the electromagnet that causes a speaker horn to move in response to the electrical impulses received from the amplifier.
The magnet is permanent, and the voice coil magnetism alternates with the current, pushing the cone outward against the magnet or pulling it inward towards the magnet as the current changes direction.
The COIL HAS A POSITIVE AND A NEGATIVE TERMINAL. If you look at the top of the coil, it is generally marked + and - on the top.
There are a couple of examples that come to mind where there is a coil in a circuit. One is, the coil is used as a choke to block harmonics from going down the electrical line. Another example of a coil in the line is the coil in a magnetic contactor. When this coil is energized the contacts of the magnetic contactor close.
coil span or coil pitch is defind as the distance mesured in terms of armature slots(or armature conductors) between two sides of a coil.
These are single voice coil. All JL Audio woofers are single voice coil except W6 and the 13w7.
They will either pull in or push out depending on the polarity of the DC voltage and remain stationary. This is a bad idea as the DC resistance of the voice coil is much less than the AC impedance of the voice coil and it is possible to overheat and burn out the voice coil due to the much higher current the DC voltage can produce in the voice coil compared to the AC voltage that would drive the voice coil in normal operation.
By measuring its resistance with an accurate multimeter provided the coil is not blown. If less resistance compared to that of the other coil would decide that it is less number turn.
Unless you are an electrician, I would not attempt it, you will need a special tool do wrap it around the axle (The post in which the voice coil moves up and down on). Either have a tech do it for you, or replace the speaker.
Bad ignition coil? if Coil on plug system is used Burned valve? Blown piston? Bad spark plug?
a voice coil is the electromagnet that causes a speaker horn to move in response to the electrical impulses received from the amplifier.
Condensate blowoff is water that condenses on an evaporator coil, is blown off the coil, and then carried a short distance down the duct by the velocity of the air through the coil.
When connecting a dual voice coil sub in series you should use the powered subs.
If you are going to replace a dual with a single you need to look up bridging it would be some thing like "{Right +}{Left -}
the orange bulb has two coiled wires. So when the light is on that specific coil might be blown out while the coil in charge of giving the turn signal works fine. In short, one coil is blown out while the other one is good. The solution for this is to get the bulb replaced.
The Legacy Car Audio LW1549 comes with a 2.5'' High Temperature Dual Kapton Voice Coil.
There are a few types of speakers, but generally, the "voice coil" type speaker is the most common used for sound systems. It consists of a strong and lightweight paper or plastic cone which is attached to a coil. The coil is aligned so that it surrounds a magnet, but the magnet does not touch the coil. When a voltage potential is connected to the voice coil, the coil and therefore the cone moves. By applying voltage at a specific frequency, the voice coil will move in synchronization with the electrical frequency. The voice coil can be moving slowly, as is required by a low frequency sound, and at the same time a high frequency electrical signal can also be injected into the signal. By overlaying multiple electrical frequencies at the same time, the voice coil will move to produce a wide range of simultaneous sounds.