Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
This could occur if the 120V supply is split-phase, where two 120V lines are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. When measuring from one of these lines to the other, you would see 240V. This is a common setup in residential electrical systems in the United States.
You will need to have a three wire feeding your well pump motor to do this. It will be connected like a sub panel breaker box. A new breaker for the pump out of the new panel and a 15 amp breaker for the new receptacle. Both of these circuits must be protected by their own breaker. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
No, electrical code typically requires that circuits be protected by a breaker that matches the wire size. A 30 amp breaker is typically used for circuits with larger wire sizes. For a 120V circuit, a 20 amp breaker is more suitable with appropriate wire size.
for USA, Canada and countries using similar 60Hz mains suppliesI'm not sure if the National Electrical Code is okay with it, but it is possible. Make sure you have a 20 Amp Double Pole breaker in the panel. Then, at the 240V outlet: You may need more room to accomodate all the wiring, so get a box extension, or if possible, upgrade to a larger box or use a junction box before the 240V outlet. Okay, Take the incoming neutral wire and connect it to the 2 120V circuits and to the 240V outlet. Connect the incoming red hot wire to a black 120V hot wire. Connect the 240V Black hot wire to the other 120V's hot wire. Connect all the ground wires together. Make sure that the box is grounded as well. Here's a simple formula for calculating the current you can use. Remember that the 120V circuits take current from one leg or the other, while the 240V Circuit takes from both. Since you have 2 120V 20A circuits, multiply the amps of the equipment you can use by 1. Now, multiply the 240V equipment's amps by 2. Add the values together. The value should be less than 32, and definitely not higher than 40. I recommend installing a 120/240V twistlok plug in the box. Then you can plug whatever you want into it. I made a nice distribution panel with 15A breakers for when I want 120V, and 240 can plug in directly. ( I use this method to power my Christmas lights. 2kW. :P)IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.If you do this work yourself, always turn off the powerat the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.If there are only 3 wires entering the box, you can't legally do it. You can not use the same wire for a neutral and a protective ground. The 3 wires are the two hot phases and the protective ground.If there are 4 wires in the box, or if metal conduit provides the protective ground in addition to 3 wires, you can do it, provided the breaker is a double pole breaker. The white wire is the neutral, the bare one is the protective ground
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.
To properly wire a double pole breaker for 240V, connect the two hot wires to the breaker terminals, the neutral wire to the neutral bus bar, and the ground wire to the ground bus bar in the electrical panel. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions and local electrical codes for safety.
This could occur if the 120V supply is split-phase, where two 120V lines are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. When measuring from one of these lines to the other, you would see 240V. This is a common setup in residential electrical systems in the United States.
You have to replace the wire (as you are increasing the current capacity), the outlet, and the breaker. Essentially you have to remove the old circuit and put in a new one. You can't reuse parts of the old circuit as you are increasing the current capacity and they would be underrated.
Don't!
You have to find Line 1 and Line 2 to get your 240 volts. Both do not exist in a 115vac panel. If coming from a main panel, you would install a 60amp 2 pole breaker and then run heavier wire to the a/c unit. A sub-panel could be added if no spaces are left tin the main panel.
you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
You will need to have a three wire feeding your well pump motor to do this. It will be connected like a sub panel breaker box. A new breaker for the pump out of the new panel and a 15 amp breaker for the new receptacle. Both of these circuits must be protected by their own breaker. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
You will have to install a double pole breaker in the fuse panel and then run new wire (10/3) to the location of the dryer and install the proper plug. You will need a 4 prong plug; the older 3 wire plugs no longer meet code for new work.
Have an electrician wire you a proper line for the appliance. You were just kidding about the 100A, right? 10, or 20amp, not 100.
Does it have a big heavy wire, like your electric dryer, or a little light wire like your refrigerator. All electric cooktops that I know of are 240V. I have never seen one that is 120V.
With one interpretation of this question, the answer would be two 120V wires and a ground.